What Is A Perm And How Does It Differ From A Relaxer?
Published December 18, 2025
Tired of the long hours you spend on arranging your hair, only for it to fall flat? If you’re looking for a lasting solution for bouncy curls or sleek, straight locks, a chemical texture treatment could be the answer. These treatments free you from daily heat styling, giving you a lasting look for months. But you might be wondering, what is a perm and how does it work? These processes use strong chemicals to restructure your hair, so it’s essential to understand them before committing.
In this article, we’ll break down the key differences between perms and relaxers, explaining their chemical processes and results. We’ll explore the pros, cons, and maintenance requirements for each treatment so you can make an informed decision for your hair. Let’s dive in and find out which texture treatment is right for you.
Introduction To Chemical Hair Treatments
Chemical hair treatments offer a semi-permanent way to change hair texture. A perm adds curls while a relaxer straightens hair. These treatments are often chosen to increase volume, smooth texture, reduce styling time, or combat humidity.
The process uses chemicals to break the hair’s disulfide bonds, reshape it, and then neutralize it to set the new texture. A professional consultation is recommended to evaluate your hair’s health and determine the best treatment for your type and goals.
What Is A Perm?
Modern perms offer customizable and natural-looking styles. You can get loose waves or defined spirals. They have moved away from the frizzy looks of the past. A perm, short for permanent wave, is a chemical treatment that adds curls or waves to straight hair. Despite the name, the effects are semi-permanent, lasting several months until the natural texture grows back.
How A Perm Works: Chemical Process And Curl Formation
The science behind a perm involves a few key steps to restructure the hair’s internal bonds.
- Preparation: The hair is washed and wrapped around rods. The rod size determines the curl size.
- Breaking Bonds: A perm solution is applied to the hair. This solution often contains ammonium thioglycolate or glyceryl monothioglycolate, a gentler alternative. It works by breaking the disulfide bonds that give hair its natural shape.
- Reshaping: With the bonds broken, the hair molds to the shape of the rods.
- Neutralizing: Finally, a neutralizer is applied. This solution rebuilds the disulfide bonds in their new, curly formation, setting the style.
Typical Perm Results: Curl Types And Longevity
The results of a perm can vary greatly depending on the technique.
- Curl Types: The final look, from tight corkscrew curls to loose beachy waves, depends on the rod size and wrapping method. Perming long hair is a multi-hour process, but short hair only needs to be long enough to wrap around the rollers.
- Longevity: A perm typically lasts 3 to 6 months. Curls in long hair often last longer because the length helps hold the pattern. As hair grows, natural roots appear, which may require a touch-up.
Perm Aftercare And Maintenance Tips
Proper aftercare is essential for preserving your curls and minimizing damage. Here are a few key tips:
- The 48-hour rule: Keep your hair dry and avoid touching it for at least 48 hours after your perm.
- Limit washing: Washing your hair frequently can cause the curls to loosen.
- Avoid chlorine and heat: Both can damage the structure of your curls.
- Use curl-friendly products: Choose lightweight, alcohol-free products to maintain moisture and shape.
What Is A Relaxer?
Hair relaxers are utilized to straighten curly or coily hair permanently. Similar to perms, they alter the hair’s structure but result in a smooth, straight look instead of curls. The primary purpose is to reduce curl patterns, frizz, and volume, making hair easier to manage. Relaxed hair stays straight even when exposed to moisture, unlike heat-straightened hair.
How Relaxers Work: Chemistry And Hair Straightening
Relaxing hair is an intense process. It breaks the hair’s disulfide bonds. These bonds are also targeted in perms, but the goal is straightening instead of curling.
- Application: The stylist applies a thick, creamy paste to the hair, taking care to avoid scalp irritation.
- Chemical Breakdown: Most relaxers use sodium hydroxide (lye relaxers). Others use calcium hydroxide (no-lye relaxers). These chemicals break down the hair’s bonds. Milder formulas may use ammonium thioglycolate. This is the same chemical found in perms, but the application method is different.
- Straightening: Instead of using rods like a perm, the stylist smooths the cream through the hair. This physical action, combined with the chemical breakdown, forces the hair into a straight shape.
- Neutralizing: After processing, the relaxer is rinsed out, and a neutralizing shampoo is applied. This shampoo stops the chemical reaction and restores the hair’s pH balance, locking it into its new straight form.
Relaxer Results: Permanence And Regrowth Touch-Ups
Relaxers permanently straighten your hair. As new hair grows in, it will have its natural texture. This creates a clear difference between the treated and untreated sections. To maintain a consistent look, touch-ups are typically needed every 6 to 12 weeks and should only be applied to the new growth.
Relaxer Aftercare And Maintenance Tips
Relaxed hair needs regular moisture and careful handling.
- Use a wide-tooth comb and detangle gently.
- Prioritize deep conditioning and leave-in moisturizers.
- Avoid overlapping chemical treatments.
- Cut down on heat styling and always use a heat protectant.
- Shield hair from chlorine and harsh environmental factors.
Relaxer Vs Perm: Side-By-Side Comparison
Perms and relaxers both change hair using chemicals. However, their formulas, applications, and results are very different.
Chemical Differences: Ingredients And pH Levels
The key difference lies in the chemicals used to break disulfide bonds in the hair.
- Perms: Modern perms use ammonium thioglycolate (“thio”), which has a lower pH. Alkaline perms range from 9.0 to 9.6, while acid-balanced perms are closer to neutral at around 7.0. The lower pH gently swells the cuticle, creating curls with less damage, especially on fine hair.
- Relaxers: Relaxers use more potent chemicals like sodium hydroxide (lye) or calcium hydroxide (no-lye). These have a very high pH (12-14) that rapidly softens the hair shaft to straighten tight curls. However, this process is more caustic and can cause significant damage if not applied carefully.
Process Differences: Application And Tools Used
Perms use rods or rollers to shape the hair before the chemical solution is applied. In contrast, relaxers are combed through to smooth the hair during processing, without using any shaping tools. This difference in physical manipulation is key to the outcome.
Results Differences: Curls Vs Straight Hair
A perm adds texture, volume, and movement to straight hair, while a relaxer removes texture, leaving hair smooth and straight. These treatments are opposites in both purpose and result.
Who Each Treatment Is Best For
Perms are ideal for those with straight or fine hair who want volume and curls. Relaxers, on the other hand, are designed for people with curly or coily hair who desire a permanently straight style. For both treatments, it’s essential to assess the hair’s health beforehand.
For those seeking a premium, personalized salon experience, Salon Suites of Wellington offers access to skilled independent beauty professionals experienced in a wide range of chemical texture services.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a perm last compared to a relaxer?
A perm typically lasts three to six months, gradually loosening over time. In contrast, a relaxer is permanent on the treated hair, requiring touch-ups to address new growth.
Can you get a perm after a relaxer (or vice versa)?
It’s strongly advised not to layer one chemical texture treatment over another, as this can lead to severe breakage and over-processing. A safe transition usually involves growing out and trimming the previously treated hair.
Is one treatment more damaging than the other?
Both treatments involve risks, but relaxers are typically more damaging because of their higher alkalinity. To minimize damage, professional application and proper aftercare are crucial for either option.
Can I wash my hair right after a perm or relaxer?
After a perm, wait for a minimum of 48 hours before washing your hair. After a relaxer, follow your stylist’s advice and avoid washing immediately to allow your hair’s pH to stabilize.
Perm Vs Relaxer: Making The Right Choice For Your Hair
Choosing between a perm or relaxer depends on your hair texture, desired style, and willingness to maintain chemically treated hair. Fully understanding what is a perm versus a relaxer is key. Each treatment involves a unique chemical process and requires a specific aftercare routine. Knowing these differences will help you make the right choice that prioritizes your hair’s health.
Ready to discuss your hair transformation with an expert? Salon Suites of Wellington is home to independent beauty professionals specializing in texture services. Find the perfect stylist to provide a personalized salon experience and bring your hair goals to life.
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About The Author
Meet Rei Bayucca, a professional writer and passionate expert in all things related to beauty. Every article is purposely designed to assist you in tackling your most challenging dilemmas. Rei’s knack for creating engaging content is guaranteed to ignite your curiosity.
